CONTEMPORARY NY
CHE017-01.jpg (39536 bytes) New York Architecture Images-Chelsea

Church of St. Francis Xavier SJ (RC)

architect

Patrick Charles Keely

location

40 West 16th St.  

date

1887

style

Baroque  

construction

granite

type

Church

 

images

 

notes

Jesuit church. Fantastic Baroque interior.
STREETSCAPES/

West 16th Street; A Side-Street Surprise: A Monumental Church 

By CHRISTOPHER GRAY 
Published: March 27, 2005, Sunday 

A TRIP down almost any street in or near Chelsea will yield some little surprise: a weathered decorative rope molding on a brownstone, a sagging but still grand loft building, a little private stable. But on West 16th Street between Fifth Avenue and Avenue of the Americas, the surprise is colossal -- a grand baroque church in granite, struggling against the confines of its narrow block like a giant in a kindergarten chair. 
It's the 1882 St. Francis Xavier Church at 30 West 16th Street, an architectural muscle show in carved granite, where the parish is now in the middle of a $6 million restoration, inside and out. 

In 1847, the Jesuit community in the village of Fordham, then part of Westchester County, established a school and church in Manhattan. Within a few years it built a simple, classical-style church on West 16th Street it called St. Francis Xavier, with land running back to 15th Street. St. Francis Xavier grew, and in 1882 the parish put up a new sanctuary that dwarfed not just the original complex but the neighboring buildings as well. 

The massive portico rushes out to the building line, aggressively crowding the passer-by. The rest of the church erupts from a relatively sober ground-floor facade into a wild assemblage of rough-cut granite blocks stacked one atop another, rising in piers on each side and, in the center, curving around to make a great central arch. 

From within the large arch projects a smaller arch, cut in half -- it's called a broken pediment. Above, there's a more conventional triangular shape with heavy carving, called a tympanum. The entire assemblage is huge and stunning, big enough to dominate a moderate-sized square in Paris, let alone an undistinguished Manhattan side street. 

The church was designed by the Irish-born Patrick Charles Keely, who had worked in his father's architectural office and, in 1841 or 1842, while in his 20's, emigrated to the United States. Little is known of Keely's early life or training, or that of his father. Either architect may have been university-educated or self-taught. 

The younger Keely designed hundreds of Roman Catholic churches -- a level of production not often consistent with high aesthetic aspirations -- and many of his designs vary only modestly from one another. So St. Francis Xavier Church presents something of a question mark for those who visit. Is the exterior a lugubrious assemblage of wildly contrasting elements by an untutored designer, or a deft collation of historical references by a master? 

''The A.I.A. Guide to New York City'' by Norval White and Elliot Willensky (Crown) doesn't take sides on the issue -- it simply calls the church ''monumental.'' A Web site, www.keelysociety.com , is devoted to the prolific Keely, who died in 1896. 

The exuberant cut-stone exterior might be a Parisian opera house or train station but, for lack of a better word, is usually described as baroque. But it hardly follows the typical model of that 17th- and 18th-century movement, which is relatively classical and restrained, at least compared with Keely's facade. 

The interior, although still colossal, is more conventional. In 1884, The New York Tribune called it ''sumptuous and exhilarating,'' a giant Latin cross with a high domed crossing, covered with coffering, carved plaster ornament and scene paintings, all as rich as a cream sauce. One notable departure from the usual are the windows at either end of the crossing. Instead of figural religious scenes, they contain pure geometric shapes, lush and highly colored, with a pre-Raphaelite character. 

Thomas Fenniman, an architect working on the restoration project, says that the stained glass was made, and perhaps designed, by Thomas and John Morgan, each listed in city directories of the day as a ''stainer.'' 

Over time, the complex of St. Francis Xavier saw an expansion that included the chunky Victorian school annex to the east built in the 1890's, itself partly demolished in 1960 for a blunt modernist building by Joseph Belfatto. A parish history done in 1985 says that a developer offered to buy the complex in 1971 to turn it into an apartment-house development. But the church survived the effort. 

It is just finishing a $2.5 million exterior repair. Michael Hourihan, chairman of the building committee, says that the exterior required extensive work and will ultimately need more. Although granite is usually a reliable stone, he says that this vein was defective, and that the church has already had to replace about 5 percent of the units. 

Mr. Hourihan says that the church, which has about 3,000 parishioners, will start a $3.5 million interior project this spring that includes mechanical and electrical work; pew, floor, lighting and plaster repair; and related items. The plaster walls are not obviously soiled, but the original white and ivory coloring has become more like café au lait, void of the sparkling magnificence visible in early photographs. 

Mr. Fenniman says that ''we don't want to make it look like new,'' but he points out details that have been lost over time, like some Victorian stenciling in a side altar, barely visible through a later coat of paint, and triangular inset panes of leaded glass, long ago sealed over. 

Few visitors are allowed up to the gallery running around the sanctuary. With a second-floor catwalk to the school next door, this balcony was meant to provide direct access for Jesuit priests and students to celebrate private Masses, separate from the public. Long abandoned, the dusty space is surrounded by light and overlooks the magnificent interior like a box seat at the opera. But it is cluttered with Christmas decorations, supplies and boxes. 

On a recent morning, the sun streamed through the east windows as a lone worshiper knelt in a rear pew. Suddenly the street doors opened, and a clutch of visitors stumbled in, looking like tourists just off a bus in Times Square. Swiveling around, they took in the surprising majesty of St. Francis Xavier in hushed tones. 

As it turned out they were not from St. Louis or St. Paul -- they were a group of New Yorkers who volunteer for the organization Big Apple Greeter. One volunteer, Arnold Strauch, said that about 400 greeters give free one-on-one tours to visitors to the city, and that he and his companions were methodically walking 16th Street from 11th Avenue to the East River, scouting to expand their itinerary for future trips. When they found St. Francis Xavier, he said, they first noticed its grand exterior, and then walked up the steps to the sanctuary. 

Mr. Strauch and his company, swiveling around the majestic interior, looked as if they had hit the jackpot. ''I never expected to find something of this magnitude on a little side street,'' he said. 

Published: 03 - 27 - 2005 , Late Edition - Final , Section 11 , Column 4 , Page 10 

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